Tyer: Don Cox
Hook: Dry #16-20
Thread: Olive #8
Tail: Fibets or long hackle babules
Body: Dry fly Blue Wing Olive dubbing
Wing: CDC with stem
Instructions: Layer thread starting at hook eye to hook barb.
Small bumb with tying thread to splay tails
Measure tail slightly longer than hook shank and tie in at 1/3 point from hook eye.
Advance thread rearward to bump, splaying tails.
Build slight taper from rear to tail tin-in point.
Tie in CDC wing with stem(s) facing to rear (fairly generous wing). Stand up wing.
Dub in back and front of wing with dubbing to form throax and stand up wing
Notes: Tails: I prefer the Microfibbets to aid in flotation. Use four to six tails for fishing purposes. Heasure tail per above, but secure mid-hook and take reasonably tight turns rearward to bump. If they don't splay to your liking, back off a couple of wraps and help them out by pulling part to one side and part to the other side.
BOdy: If you prefer, a delicate body of dubbing can bew used instead of thread body. Upon fishing, it may help flotation with dry fly flotation gel on the body and tails for some longer floats. But as usual,
Wing: Depending on CDC material, additional feather may be needed for generous wing that is fixible when fishing. Just marry the feathers at the tips and squeeze feather to normal parachue wing height between thumb and forefinger and tie in to desired geight. When fishing
Dubbing Throrax: Make firm wraps initially, first in back of the wing and in front of the wings to keep wing in the desired position. Then, use normal wraps to build thorax. Avoid leaving a thread wrap showing.